Gardening with vermicompost

From WormWiki

Vermicompost is a soil amendment, not a fertilizer. It has many beneficial microbes that help the plants resist disease and it has nutrients in a form that are more easily used by the plant. (I think that if you have extremely infertile soil, you will still need a fertilizer - I'm not sure on this one.)

Vermicompost can be sprinkled at the base of existing plants or used when first planting. For containers, recommendations run from 10% to 50% vermicompost. You can grow plants in 100% vermicompost, but they don't do quite as well as those with some soil.

When planting outside, place small amounts of vermicompost in with the seed/ seedling.

For large areas (lawns), consider vermicompost tea. (Vermicompost steeped in water for a few days with air running through to allow a population explosion of the beneficial microbes.)

Alternatively, your 'worm bin' can be a hole dug out of the dirt with bedding, organic material and worms placed inside. If there's a good enough environment (enough food), the worms will stay. It helps to set up the bedding/food and let it 'mature' for a few days to make the environment good for the feeding of worms immediately. (Worms eat the microbes that eat the food. They don't directly eat the food.) All nearby plants will benefit. If you want to fertilize a tree, a container that is open on the top and bottom (or a cloth bag) can be placed near the base of the tree. Either of these ideas can be used as a trench along the side/middle of a garden if you have lots of worms. If you spread the worms out too much, the speed of composting will decrease and you increase the chance of getting insects or anaerobic conditions. If you have ground dwellers (moles, etc), line your area with chicken wire.